11 Miles
Wake up not sure what weather to expect as it is meant to be very breezy today – it’s a stark contrast from yesterday’s sunny day – like a grey blanket has been draped over us.
We make our way in the car through Strete, along Slapton Sands and wind along the wiggly roads back to Start Point, where we leave the car in the car park. It’s a whole lot busier than when we left it last night.
Stroll down the track towards the lighthouse and take the signed coastal path across Start Point – todays walk is almost exclusively set high up on the clifftop. The paths are narrow and rocky and meandering in and out of large boulders. On a busy weekend in the middle of a worldwide pandemic when most people’s holidays are being enjoyed close to home it is somewhat busy and not always easy to keep to the 2-metre rule when passing on a narrow path, but lovely to see so many other people enjoying our stunning coastline.
It’s great to see the local tradition of making use of unusual heavy items to close the gates continue here with a sash window weight hanging from the inside of the next gate. This leads on to Down Farm – in the same family for over 100 years rearing cattle and sheep and growing grain. We read about their conservation work on the information board before meandering down and over a little stream at Lannacombe Beach where a family are making patterns on the beautiful sandy beach.
We come across a lovely house, surrounded by new fencing nestled in the next valley and hidden by high bracken, trees and shrubs. Nigel had been looking out for this house as it turns out it is the home of, the one and only, Kate Bush. She is nowhere to be seen or heard but exciting nevertheless to know she lives here and most likely walks these cliff paths when the visitors have left for the evening.
The rocky path, with trip hazards galore, takes us passed a sign saying ‘Woodcombe Point – this land was given ‘in memory of Ernest and Dula Rose by their children in 1983’. It’s not clear who owns it now but thank you to them for caring for and protecting this beautiful spot.
It’s another mile or so of rocky pathways before we come across another grand house – this is Maelcombe House. I remember my parents staying here many years ago when it was a bed and breakfast, it now looks like it’s a family home. As we pass by, walking along the field there are wild flowers galore in the hedgerow – geraniums, rose bay willow herb, ragwort and many others I can’t identify but all alive with bees and butterflies.
We stop for a welcome break and a picnic on the clifftop watching a family scrambling up a rocky outcrop in the sea. It’s busier now as the little village of East Prawle is only a short walk over the hills. We can now see Prawle Point in the distance – the most southerly point in Devon. I feel like I can almost see the island of Guernsey where one of our daughters’ lives – I think is the closest we will get!
I would liked to have stopped for a break at the Lookout Station but it is busy with walkers and their dogs are particularly vocal so we carry on west towards Gammon Head. We are only half way along todays walk – it’s a long one!
The remainder of the walk meanders on rocky cliff tops, sometimes scrambling over them, other times admiring the prolific wild flowers and dodging walkers going the other way. We pass the Gara Rock Hotel up above us.
We are certainly ready to finish for the day when we come round the headland into Salcombe Harbour, but as with all these estuaries the pathway seems to carry on for quite a while before you arrive in civilisation. The sun is coming out now, giving lovely dappled sunlight through the woodlands and white puffy clouds in a blue sky above the picturesque Salcombe Harbour town.
Mill Bay is busy with holiday makers – we remember staying with young children in Salcombe and catching the ferry over to East Portlemouth to find this sandy beach. We are relieved to arrive at the Venus café, stopping to enjoy the view and refreshments while waiting for our taxi back to our car.
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