9 miles

0
Miles walked since starting. . .

We’ve spent the night at The Blanch Hotel in Brighton – breakfast was a very nice scrambled egg and smoked salmon in the delightfully decorated basement restaurant.

Drive along to Newhaven Fort and try to find the pathway to the cliff A lovely lady at the Fort reception directs us back past the recreation ground and through the little bungalow park.

Aided by the local neighbourhood watch we finally find a footpath between the plastic flamingos and twee little fences to the cliff edge walk – what a relief.

Leaving Newhaven behind we look back to the sweeping Seaford cove remembering the delicious hot chocolate sitting in the deckchair on the beach then head over the cliff towards Peacehaven. The prolific little pink flowers hanging on to the cliff edge are called Sea Thrift Armeria maritima.. We collapse for a bit to rest my back – not sure I will manage the whole walk to Brighton Marina with a prolapsed disc??

We can see the sea cliff protection and a walkway under the chalk cliff ahead but can’t quite see a route down?? Thankfully as we descend towards Peacehaven we find a set of steps dramatically cut into the face of the chalk cliff taking us down to the stark yet welcome concrete pathway under the cliff.

The tide is high and the waves are occasionally splashing over the little wall yet there are surprisingly few stones on the walkway. It is deserted as we start our walk but we slowly start to see a few dog walkers and buggy pushers.

Unsure as to how long the pathway will continue we ask a buggy walker and thankfully keep going to the end where we both discover our guesses are correct – this sea defence was built 40 years ago and seems to be doing its job well. We do ponder over the occasional long stripe of concrete coming down the cliff – my guess is where they poured the liquid substance down during construction?

Our luck finally runs out and we head up a pathway to the cliff top – we have missed most of the sprawling town of Peacehaven and find a welcome pub called the Smugglers Rest on the cliff with a beer garden looking out to sea. Why aren’t there more pubs like this on the British coastline?

Saving ourselves for the potential meal at Brighton Marina we opt for crisps and refreshment and rest our weary legs enjoying the sea view. There seems to be a warship patrolling the English Channel?? Our luck with the weather seems to be continuing as it is the clearest day ever out to sea.

Having seen a walker disappear “lemming style” over the cliff I send Nigel in to ask if there is a lower cliff path onwards? As he is in the pub I spot a sign I can just read saying “nudists”.. Oops! Despite the staff knowing nothing about the beach it turns out this is a known nudist beach!! Obviously this does not put us off our quest to discover if there is an onward path – we read the bye law sign and wander down the steps to the deserted beach.

Heading onwards with the sea to our left we sadly come to an abrupt end as the last concrete groyn blocks our path and we peer onwards to see the sea lapping at the cliff edge.. Oh well nice try, we retrace our steps and admire the amazing paintwork and carved graffiti on the way back to the beach. The occasional dog walker (both looking surprisingly like their respective dogs – a pitball and a poodle) pass us by and we head back over Telscombe Cliff towards Saltdean.

We catch a glimpse of the Art Deco style lido before heading back down to another welcome under cliff path towards the Marina which is now in sight. Oh my we are being lucky with our pit stops today – Molly’s cafe is bustling indoors and outdoors with grey haired gossiping ladies, after school mums and kids, keen cyclists and us eating ice cream and enjoying another well earned break.

Deciding that I am going to make it to the Marina today we carry on along the concrete under cliff very very slowly with both cyclists and walkers overtaking us. On arrival at the Marina we check out the restaurants opting for the more upmarket and recently converted Malmaison Hotel. We had considered staying here and I would definitely come back.

The stunning lobby area was discovered through a door in a dark corridor and up a lift. Wow – felt very similar to walking into the sky garden in London.. Lovely seating, flowers and open space but the draw of the triangular veranda sticking out towards the bobbing boats and the sea pulled us out.

Enjoy a delicious club and fish finger sandwich with a pimms listening to the chatter of our fellow diners and the sound of the music drifting up from the restaurants below. Sadly we suddenly realise the time and have to send Nigel to DASH off to catch a bus to Newhaven to rescue the car before they shut the car park at the fort, whilst I enjoy another drink overlooking the marina boats and the English Channel beyond.