Weather forecast checked. Cold for the time of year. Nigel and I wrap up warm, but ever the optimists, we depart for Cuckmere Haven in our open top motor. The car park at Exceat is on the east side of the meandering Cuckmere River, so our walk starts with a wander round the busy road to the far side of the river.

It’s a twenty-minute stroll along the riverbank, thankfully this part of the river has been straightened, running perpendicular to the sea. The sea – despite the low grey cloud, the calm sea is oh so very blue today. The iconic coastguard’s cottages are still clinging on to the edge of the cliff. The footpath weaves behind the cottages, up the cliff where we look back towards Eastbourne. I’m guessing fewer people walk this side of Cuckmere Haven, but the view from here looking back over the ups and downs of the chalk cliffs called the Seven Sisters is spectacular.

Clambering up the cliff, every step takes us closer to the top and the view towards Seaford, but it’s a strenuous climb. The path takes us alongside a golf course – Seaford Head Golf Course. Described on their website as an “undulating downland/links style course”, we spend some time pondering over, what exactly is a “links” golf course? When the view appears over Seaford Bay towards Brighton it certainly is worth the forty-minute walk. There’s the lighthouse on the end of Newhaven harbour and in the distance the British airways i360. Not yet open to the public, this concrete tower with a massive glass, moving pod, is glinting in the sunlight. Yes, the sun is now peeping through the clouds. I’m not sure why but we notice a distinct lack of ferries going into and out of Newhaven Harbour today?

It’s a scramble down the grassy cliff into the seaside town of Seaford. You know the kind of scramble where you are never sure if you are going to be able to stop? But once we do stop, we watch for a while the gulls flying around and landing on a white cliff stack. Despite living in this area for years, I have frequented Hastings, Eastbourne, Brighton but never visited Seaford. But “thirst things thirst” we are in search of the beach cafe which has been highly recommended by a friend.

Along the promenade, with its row of sweet little painted beach huts, we find Frankie’s Beach Café. It’s a small hut with old fashioned deckchairs on the beach. The hot chocolate, which comes highly recommended, lives up to expectations. After resting our tired limbs in the deckchairs, we drag ourselves onwards. Glancing into the town, one building stands out – Corsica Hall, a listed apartment block, formerly a college. But there’s nothing else particularly drawing us away from the sea to explore.

It’s a wide, easy-going promenade, which eventually peters out, we resort to walking on the stones as Seaford melds into Newhaven. It is oh so very quiet on the beach, we pass just two people. The clothing layers are coming off as the weather is now warm and still and the sun is trying very hard to poke itself through the thin layer of clouds.

Arriving into the outskirts of Newhaven the River Ouse cuts through the landscape. We wander down the small harbour arm and look across the river estuary. Oh, how I wish we could pole vault, jump, swim, hitch a lift on a boat – anything but walk the half mile or so inland to cross the bridge and back out to the sea front.

We wind our way around reptile mitigation fences, alongside warehouses, residential streets and over railway bridges and river estuaries into Newhaven. Rather than continuing back down to the sea we make a rash decision to head back to the pub near our car.

Catch the number 12 along the coast, enjoying the superb view from the top deck. Jumping off at the Cuckmere inn, we grab a quick drink sitting in the sunny garden overlooking the estuary. This morning’s optimism has paid off – we drive off with the car roof down to Alfriston where we enjoy a beer, pimms, fabulous fish platter, chips and the last of the sunshine in the beer garden at the George Inn.