There are some lovely properties set high above the Gannel estuary, with fine views across Crantock beach. In fact, I would say is a very desirable part of Newquay to live. Wandering along Riverside Avenue into Riverside Crescent we find the Fern Pit café where the summer time ferries cross the Gannel estuary. A small hand written sign resting against plastic boxes says CLOSED. The parking area is taken up with the neatest row of brand new, or recently renovated, lobster pots, I have ever seen.

Both the map and the coast path sign direct us straight across the headland towards Fistral beach but it seems a shame not to walk round the grassy headland. It’s a patchwork of gorse, in flower, and rocky outcrops. We walk half way round the edge then up and over the hill to enjoy the view of Newquay from the other side. Sadly, shrouded in mist today. An imposing building on the cliff top overlooking the bay turns out to be the Lewinnick Lodge hotel – looks a stylish place to stay.

The path hugs a dry-stone wall studded with a delightful succulent like plant called Wall Pennywort Umbilicus rupestris and brambles. We follow the path around the headland below a row of properties facing Fistral beach. The first of them is a rather odd-looking dome shaped roof enclosing the rooms, almost space ship like. Another property has a fabulous sculpture, shaped like a sea creature, made from coastal finds called “Groynehild”.

The waves on Fistral beach are lively today with sea spray mingling with the low cloud cover. Very few people are on the beach and even fewer surfing the waves. We take the steps down, clamber over some rocks then wander along the sandy beach, famous for surfing competitions, but today just dog walkers and holiday makers. At the far end of the beach is an array of expired Christmas trees poking out of the sand – how peculiar? The modern RNLI lifeboat station is perched on this end of the beach.

We wander down passed the imposing red brick Headland hotel and spa, iconic on the Newquay skyline and on to Towan Head, home of the former RNLI station. Haha Nigel looks perplexed when he can’t find the slip route from the RNLI station, but he’s looking on the wrong side!

A curious little white building overlooks Newquay Bay, which turns out to be the Huer’s Hut. Dating back to the 14th century the Huer’s Hut was home to a Huer who looked out for shoals of pilchard. When he spotted the pilchards, he blew a horn to alert the townsfolk and shouted Hevva Hevva. The whitewashed stone building has a chimney with a large open fire place, and an external staircase sweeping around the back to the vantage point on the top.

We had noted a distinct lack of boats in the sea or any quays in this area of Cornwall, so were pleased to see the little harbour on the edge of Newquay Bay, fishing boats bobbing in the deep water. At this point the coast path goes into the town centre, we are thirsty and hungry so are pleased to see so many Cornish pasty shops, although we just grab a snack and head on towards today’s final destination, Watergate Bay.

The shops are a welcome distraction for a while, but it is lovely to get back on to the coastal walk, above Tolcarne beach then onto the Barrowfields. On this open grassland we spot a group of Choughs, all but one take to the skies as we near them. The final chough allows me to get close enough for me to video him pecking at a worm hiding under the turf.

At Lusty Glaze the proprietor of the Kallacliff guest house, with for sale signs declaring a unique development opportunity, is nailing an old rug to the railings outside the property? We miss the footpath and wander into bungalow city before retracing our steps and passed the row of new properties in Lusty Glaze with views looking back to Newquay Bay.

Taking the steps down on to Porth Beach we walk across the exposed sand towards the Mermaid inn and round onto Trevelgue Head. What looked like a rope bridge from a distance turns out to be a concrete bridge across to the Porth island. I take pictures of the sea gushing through the gap then turn back towards the road.

The footpath is closed with a large digger and crane working perilously close to the cliff edge. We find our own way round, follow the road for a short while before taking a very muddy path which weaves across the cliff tops towards Watergate Bay. By now the mist has come right down to meet the cliffs, we can barely even see the beach by the time we reach the hotel complex.

Fish and chips, in the restaurant just above the bay, are excellent and it’s great to rest after today’s walk. Frustratingly, the bus we try to catch back to our car doesn’t arrive, so it’s a hour long wait for the next bus, by which time it is really drizzling.