Time to say goodbye to our little fisherman’s cottage in Lelant. We motor around the coast, depositing one car at the large tourist car park in Portreath and bundle into the other car, Lola all excited, as we head back to where we left off yesterday.

There is low fluffy cloud cover, menacing grey shapes swirling with vivid white ones, hanging below the bright blue sky. All battling to dominate today’s weather.

Hell’s Mouth and Deadman’s Cove are not far below us as we wander along the level clifftop footpath. On the map marked as Reskajeage Downs, which translates as “heath of many battles”. Perhaps that explains the naming of Deadman’s Cove? The going is easy – mostly a wide well-trodden path, wide enough for two to walk side by side, through low gorse and waving grass. Looking ahead we can see the cliffs, all much the same height as they weave in and out towards St. Agnes Head.

A curious white orb shape is visible in the morning haze sitting on top of the cliffs beyond Portreath. Research reveals that this orb is a fibre glass protective dome protecting a long-range radar, owned by the RAF. I think this will be in our sites for many miles to come.

After an hour of easy going walking the sun appears to be winning and we take a rest on one of the simple wooden benches which are dotted along this picturesque cliff top walk. Not far below are smooth sandy beaches, the outstretches dotted and smeared with rocks and seaweed. The sea reflecting the blue of the sky, tiny waves rippling over the sands. I squint to work out a man standing on the edge of wide expanse of sea, his feet in the water, I think fishing.

This stretch of coast is so very stunning – the simplicity of dark rocky cliffs, weaving in and out around sandy coves, topped with waving grass and the wide expanse of the Celtic Sea. It’s hard to believe that we are looking straight out towards Cork on the south coast of Ireland.

Just over an hour into today’s walk we find ourselves on a slalom descent into a valley then a steep ascent up the other side aided by rocky steps. This affords a stunning view looking back. A recent (I’m guessing) cliff fall takes us on a coast path diversion. Portreath soon comes into view – surfers braving the cold sea, walkers enjoying the wide expanse of sand. Abundant dwellings nestled in the valley, creeping a little up the sides, their windows and white painted walls contrasting with the deep green of the wooded valley.

By now the grey clouds have won the battle, our hoods are pulled up, coats closed tightly as we tackle the steep descent, framed by gorse, into the sheltered valley.

It’s a Tuesday in October, not all the coffee shops are open and those that are have been discovered by other holidaymakers seeking shelter from the cold wind and slight drizzle. We are not one of those lucky ones and end up enjoying the only cream tea of our holiday out of a takeaway box outside a café wishing we had been just a few minutes earlier.

We’ve come to the end of an enjoyable and memorable holiday with Heather, Mark and Lola the dog. In my mind I’m already planning our next trip to Cornwall.