6 Miles
We leave our Lelant holiday home early this morning, depositing one car at the small National Trust car park beyond The Knavocks headland we drive back to the car park at Riviere Towans. We walk past the Bluff Inn to the glorious sandy beach.
Young and old beach folk all seem to have wellington boots on? I’m a little disconcerted but take my trainers and socks off and enjoy the feeling of the sand between my toes.
The wide expanse of skies one minute menacing grey, with a complete semi-circle rainbow soon transform to azure blue, dotted with cotton wool clouds. I absolutely love the next part of the walk – one whole hour of strolling with my feet in the cool Atlantic Sea, waves lapping in and out. Bliss.
The beach is expansive – from the dunes with their wavy Marram grass to the sea lapping at the water’s edge; from our start point at Riviere Towans to the Godrevy Island lighthouse in the distance.
Ahead, a row of little sticks are moving between the dunes and the sea. Closer, it looks more like Lemmings – dropping down from the cliff, walking towards the sea where blockers are sending them back the other way. Closer still, I make out surfers emerging from a holiday complex with boards in hand eager to catch the waves.
Our sights are set on Godrevy Island lighthouse, sitting on its own little patch of grass on a rocky island.
I’m thinking of the warm Philps Cornish pastie in my back pack. As we arrive at St. Gothian Sands, we find a spot on some dry sand and enjoy the tasty steak and onion in thick buttery pastry. Now to the tricky task of cleaning the sand off our feet! It’s bustling here with people, dogs and surfers watched over by the RNLI crew. There’s a large National Trust car park and the Rockpool café, where we head for a hot chocolate.
Climbing out of Gwithian to Godrevy Head, the sand and dunes behind us, we are accompanied by far too many holiday makers for my liking. The going is easy. The paths wide enough to pass without the awkward embarrassment of whether to say “good morning”, “thank you” or just an acknowledging smile. Birds dipping in and out of the low gorse.
I soon realise why it’s so busy. Mutton Cove, at the tip of Godrevy Head, is home to a herd of grey seals. Looking over the cliff top I squint to make out their crescent shapes. Through the binoculars the blurred outlines sharpen into focus. Fifty, or so, of the rather cute aquatic mammals just taking it easy on the beach. Occasionally shuffling away from the incoming sea or playfully interacting. Their little world is mesmerising.
As the seal watchers turn back to bustling Gwithian we ramble on around Navax Point, Castle Giver Cove, Fishing Cove and Hell’s Mouth, arriving at our car just as it starts to rain.
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