8 Miles
We’ve enjoyed a couple of nights in Fowey. A well-earned break yesterday with a trip to the beach and a swim (a bit cold in April), watched Prince Phillips funeral (very moving), then a take away pizza and ice creams (very tasty).
The alarm is set early to catch the first ferry across to Polruan, with the buses only running on week days we’ve booked a taxi to take us back to Polperro. The taxi driver is pleased for the business – 2021 hasn’t been good for business and 2020, by all accounts, brought many people to Cornwall who were surprised at the lack of night life – evidently not prepared for the wonderful sedate way of life.
He drops us in the town and we wander back through the little shopping street, to the right of the harbour and up out of the village. Looking back, Polperro is typically Cornish with the blue waters and houses nestled in the cliffside. We are very quickly in open countryside on a single-track pathway through the long grass and pretty flowers. I spot the tall red stems of navelwort with their fleshy round leaves, the pretty pink bobbing flowers of the sea thrift, and the beautifully named three-cornered leek with its cluster of white bell-like flowers.
The sign posts say six miles to Polruan but they are typically Cornish (well in fact typical of all the coast paths) and don’t descend in numbers in proportion to the walk. What today’s walk lacks in variety it makes up in substance. The meandering path goes up and down the hillsides with lots of steps and numerous bridges over the trickling water which is making its way out to sea. We pretty much have this delightful walk to ourselves as we enjoy the sights and sounds of Nealand Point, Colors Cove, Blackybale Point, Penslake Cove and yet another Shag Rock.
By 3pm we are wandering around Polruan Coastwatch, its red windsock blowing in the breeze, contrasting against todays lovely blue skies, which are brushed with swathes of pale cotton wool strands. It’s a very pretty view view across Polruan Pool to Fowey – sailing boats moored up ready for their next adventure, the town lit up by the spring afternoon sunshine, all nestled within the green of the surrounding fields and woodlands.
We explore the remains of Polruan Castle, the stone windows framing the view of the harbour, then catch the ferry back to Fowey. Everywhere is a lot busier than it was first thing this morning. Time for another ice cream, Dime bar flavour today. We then grab our books and wander along to the Grammar School Garden to rest for a while before fish and chips and our last night in our Fowey holiday cottage.
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