8 Miles
From our little holiday home where, yet again, we wake up to views of clear blue skies over the English Channel, we wander back over the Rame headland to start todays walk from Cawsand, where we left off last night.
Having checked out the place yesterday we are now quite early for lunch so purchase Cornish pasties for later and an ice cream for now, which we enjoy on Cawsand beach –bustling with holiday makers.
The coast path takes us along a road behind a couple of sea facing dwellings high up above the beach. It leads to yet another MOD owned piece of the seafront which we skirt around through a delightful woodland.
When it opens up at Penlee Battery nature reserve we spot the grotto below us – the very same one on the front cover of our Ordnance Survey map – what a fascinating little place on a picture-perfect headland?
The walk from here to Rame Head is delightful – it’s moor-like with stunted blackthorn, the odd gorse bush and prolific wildflowers. Although we are a few weeks too early for the foxgloves.
At Rame Head we take the short detour up to the ruined Chapel on the headland that we’ve had in our sights for a while. We can see back across the estuary to Wembury and on towards Looe but we can’t quiet see our little holiday home around the corner.
There are wild ponies grazing, one with a tiny foal lying on its side – I will it to stand up and I am thankfully rewarded. The path meanders round the corner until, at last, we have site of Captain Blake’s Retreat. Apparently the Captain died at sea not far from here.
Walking behind Polhawn Fort (a superb spot as a wedding venue) and down to the cottages where our car is parked, we take the 300-metre pathway to take a well-earned break of a beer and a Cornish pasty – still warm, from the shop this morning.
It’s hard to draw ourselves away from our retreat but we decide to walk on in the afternoon – it certainly turns out to be a walk of two halves.
The coast path runs right passed our cottage – a meandering narrow path through gorse above “Wiggle Cliff” – we don’t see any, but apparently adders roam around here – not a bad place to live!
We come across little wooden dwellings nestled in the gorse on the cliff side – a few at first but once the coast path joins the busy Military Road there are lots of them – all different in their own sweet way but all with this incredible sea view. It’s a shame to have to walk on the road but it’s fairly quiet this afternoon.
Tregonhawke melds into Freathy with even more wooden holiday homes (or maybe permanent homes?) before the coast path leaves the road but running parallel to it for a little while. Ahead we can see the imposing Tregantle Fort, the flags aren’t flying so we are free to walk through but decide it’s been a long day so we wander along to look for a bus stop. There’s an ice cream van in the layby, we purchase an ice lolly and ask him where the bus stops – bizarrely he hasn’t a clue, but we hang around and soon flag down the bus back to our unique little retreat.
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