7 Miles
After yesterdays failed attempt due to stormy weather, we arrive at Branscombe Mouth by taxi and head straight up the grassy hill passed the cafe which appears to have closed for the season.
We curve our way round the coastguard’s cottages with their fine view of the bay through a row of olive trees, an unusual choice but I like it. Looking back there is a fabulous view of the sun glistening on the sea – somewhat different to yesterday’s stormy seas.
The first part of the walk is up and down, mostly single track through woodlands with a fine view soon opening up inland to Branscombe village nestled in the valley. When countryside opens up to open fields the view over the bay looking west toward the English Riviera is crystal clear. We can see, just ahead, a little outcrop of chalk cliffs but otherwise the cliffs round here are very very red which is giving the sea an almost orange tinge to it.
We pass a curious little dwelling on the cliff top with a sign saying ‘Romany Van Only’ – what an incredible spot to live and grow your own fruit and veg? A little further on we discover that “grow your own” or “market gardening” thrived in this sheltered area under the cliff throughout the 19th and 20th century. Now National Trust owned, the Weston Plats, facing south with a natural spring were the perfect place to grow flowers, fruit, corn and much more. The local people used seaweed to enrich the soils and donkeys to transport early season ‘Branscombe Spuds’ to the village. From here we can hear the distant sound of donkeys in the nearby sanctuary – maybe there is a former connection with the plats?
The South West coast path now meanders over a lumpy bumpy field, passed some sheep grazing on the grassy cliff tops and a recently ploughed “red soiled” field. Looking back, we are lucky enough to see Portland Bill in the distance, where we walked on New Year’s Day and below us a pebbly beach.
The path goes once more into woodland with steep but well-made steps taking us down the hill to Weston Mouth then zigzagging back up to Dunscombe Cliff. Soon the view opens up to the seaside town of Sidmouth. It’s a bit of a tease as we still have one more descent to Salcombe Mouth and back up where we carry on across open farmland before passing some lovely cliff top dwellings
A detour (due to the building of a replacement bridge) takes us up then down the river Sid with a bridge over the ford where we join a young kid excited to see people driving through what looks way too deep a river! Now in the town of Sidmouth we head to the seafront where we pass the small lifeboat station then on to ‘The Aspect’, our holiday home on Lyme Regis esplanade for a well-earned lunch break.
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