8.5 Miles
The local bus takes us back to Easton where we re-trace our steps to Church Ope Cove – oh my what a pretty little cove with oh so many cute beach huts all shut up for the winter. We skim a pebble or two then continue along the South West Coast Path.
The walk takes us through disused quarries, skirting the edge of Southwell. Remnants of quarried stone blocks along with disused cranes have us wondering of how this area must have been maybe 100 years ago. We take some time pondering over the workings of the wooden crane at Sandholes and further on – Red Crane. These were once used to manoeuvre Portland stone on to boats to be shipped to London and other far-flung places to create buildings including St. Pauls Cathedral, Buckingham Palace and the Cenotaph.
We finally arrive at the Southerly tip of the Island – Portland Bill. It has a feeling not dissimilar to our inaugural walk at Dungeness.. There are small dwellings, beach hut style, dotted around, mostly closed up but one enthusiastic chap was doing some weekend DIY.
There appears to be, not one, but three lighthouses – the iconic Red and White lighthouse on the tip of bill guides ships around the dangerous underwater ledge which causes an unusual tidal flow aptly named the Portland Race. Higher and Lower Lighthouses are by all accounts now a bird sanctuary and a dwelling. We enjoy a well-earned break at the Lobster Pot Cafe, it is amazingly warm enough to sit outside and enjoy our salmon and cream cheese sandwich and fries. Pulpit Rock is named due to its resemblance to an open bible leaning against a pulpit – our photograph opportunity is delayed until climbers have dispersed.
The walk back along the island is a lovely cliff walk with constant views overlooking Chesil beach – we skirt round a military establishment and enjoy the views forward as well as looking back to Portland Bill. There are a few other walkers hiking along the cliff, at one point we all stop to admire a kestrel hovering between the clifftop and the sea.
We skirt a rather formidable looking school and the edge of the village of Weston before arriving in a former quarry with a difference. The Tout Quarry has been rather brilliantly turned into a sculpture park – the left-over chunks of stone have been artistically turned into a fireplace, a falling man, a Viking ship, tiny rabbit, owl and Roy the Dog amongst other things.
We now find ourselves climbing down a steep path with an incredible view of all the colourful dwellings of Fortuneswell and over to Weymouth Harbour and beyond, which takes us to a promenade alongside the start of Chesil Beach.
Today’s walk finishes at the warm and cosy Cove House Inn, where we enjoy a delicious meal as the sun goes down on the last day of 2018.
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